Skymarathon Chopok 2021 (42km / 2600m+), Srdiečko, 11.9.2021
DNF once, now F
One beautiful day in July (I guess in a daze of my mind), I signed up for the Skymarathon Chopok. I guess I somehow subconsciously suspected that the Klin wouln't take place that year, so when I saw an advertisement for this race on Facebook, I preferred not to think too much and registered quickly.
In 2018, I ran the shorter route of this event (21km, 1200m elevation gain) and despite, or maybe because of, low expectations (Jasná is bleh..), I really liked the race. The weather was cold, autumnal, foggy and windy, and the sun shone through at times. Great organization, wonderful route (the south side of the main ridge is beautiful, plus I ran down Široka dolina for the first time in my life and I was blown away), the fact that I passed two women in the finishing "flat line" (understand 8km long and 900m elevation gain, the finish is up at Chopok near Funitel Cable Car Station) just before the end and finished third in the F40 category, a rich post-race refreshment, an even richer raffle (I didn't win anything), a friendly atmosphere, meeting many old fellow runners and establishing a new friendship with Klára from Moravia, these were all moments, which have been preserved forever in the beautiful memory of this event
The year has come and gone and in 2019 I said to myself that I had trained enough to be able to run this so I would try a long route - 42km and 2600m elevation gain. Of course, a week before, the Vysokohorský beh cez Klin took place, which I couldn't miss. So I went to Chopok to finish myself off. A cold sunny morning promised a beautiful warm autumn day and one pitfall I had no idea about. It was located at the fifth kilometer in the forest. Wasps had drilled nests in the ground right in the path, several in a row in a short section. And since the pleasant warm weather prevailed for a long time, they were still quite viable. The first runners trampled these nests beautifully, and other runners just jumped over the swarms of angry wasps flying over their destroyed houses. I managed to jump over the first two swarms unscathed and on the third one I was dodged. Three stings at once in the right calf. I hate wasps, they are disgusting to me, the most disgusting insect. I have nothing against spiders, bees, dragonflies, flies, but not wasps. Wasps are deeeeaaaathhhh.. So it completely derailed me, but I tried to push away the initial pain. I managed to stop perceiving it and calm down, even though I knew that sooner or later I would end up with an elephant foot. I just prayed that it would happen after the race. I don't remember much about the rest of the route, only that I was struggling with poles that didn't want to unfold, then they really got in the way on the narrow single track, finally they didn't want to fold back and when I managed to do it, I was really frustrated with them. I mainly wore them for that vertical finish line, so that I could push a bit harder on those eight steep kilometers.
The paradox is that I didn't even get to the finish line, because I didn't reach the cut off time at Biela púť and they stopped me. I took the cable car to the finish like a lady, and I was left with the feeling of something suddenly interrupted and unfinished. Surprisingly 😁 But internally I was convinced that I would not be coming back here again. Why would I willingly let myself be stung by wasps? And then not reach the cut off times? Out of seven women that day, only one finished. By the time I got home from the race, my leg was swollen pretty nicely along its entire length and it hurt like hell. The next day I couldn't even stand on it.
This year, after Ultrapunk (read here: Ultrapunk85) I try to rest and recover as much as possible, but on Sunday, a week before the race, I have one pleasant training session at Chopok. No push, just let the feet remember the granite and the head the altitude. Well, even the great Jason Koop himself says that the closer the race, the more specifically you should train for that race. Janka again lent me her Janko, who was also registered for the race and was happy to run some sections.
On Saturday morning, the day of the race, we drive to Hotel Srdiečko with Majka and Janko F. We manage the presentation, coffee, sit, chat, WC, final preparations before the start. The atmosphere is pleasant, cozy - on the long route there will be exactly 23 of us plus 4 relays. Before the start, the organizers shoot and take pictures of us like stars - that is, Mária is a star, I'm not, but I'll let myself be photographed and filmed 😂 followed by the course description - just to be sure, I ask if THOSE wasps are THERE. Apparently they are not. That's how I calm down internally and set myself up for a stress-free process. To that, one of the runners commented that even a year ago, even two years ago, they claimed that the wasps wouldn't be there.. but they were there 😆 So I prefer to worry internally and prepare for a problematic course, just to be sure.
3, 2, 1 and we're off. A handful of runners shoot out on 100m flat, followed by a steep climb up the slope to Kosodrevina. Everyone is running. I run too. In 20m I feel my thighs and calves on fire, which have not yet been completely burnt from the previous demanding events. So I slow down to a hike, my breath calms down, my muscles get the blood flowing. I see that some others are also getting into the walk. We will get to run a lot today anyway. I can see Majka's back for a while, but not for long... And Janko - he ran out of my sight almost immediately and ran beautifully - with a time of 5:31 he finished in fifth place.
I arrive at Kosodrevina almost a minute earlier than two years ago. I'm feeling well. From there we run up to a pleasant traverse in the direction below Krupove sedlo. The sun is slowly peeking out from behind the ridge, playing with colors on the dewy grass around the trail. It's beautiful here, I'm having a great run. At the end of the traverse, a volunteer with a large cowbell directs me down to the right while cheering me noisily. I run across the meadow and into the forest. All of the others have already escaped me, but I don't care - I have two goals today - to survive the wasps and reach the cut off times (that is, to be better than I was two years ago). The fateful fifth kilometer section is approaching. I can feel the fear creeping up on me, but I say to myself - maybe they really won't be there today. An image from two years ago comes to my mind, of seeing swarms of black and yellow insects flitting against the sunlight piercing the darkness of the forest. For now, however, only small flies fly in the light of the timid rays. The trail is really clean, beautiful, peaceful. So today it will be without a needle. Hooray 😁 first goal accomplished.
The forest trail connects to a wide stony path leading from Trangoška to Chata M.R. Stefanika. It is steep and full of large stones, between which I try to ballet and not to trip or twist my ankle. I realize that I am already completely abandoned, enjoying peace and solitude. Today I race only with myself. It's quite pleasant, not hearing the stomping of other feet behind me, not having to chase the runners in front of me, not being under pressure and stress. I'm probably not a natural born racer. Well, not probably, but probably for sure. 😅 Crowds of tourists are starting to flow from Trangoška upwards, so I hurry to pack from there as quickly as possible. The route brings me back to Srdiečko, from where I have to climb Kosodrevina again, this time along the hiking trail on the right side of the slope. I also managed this section (or segment on Strava) half a minute faster than last time.
There is an aid station prepared at Kosodrevina and the competitors starting on the shorter route will be grouped here. I meet Braňo, a short greeting, mutual encouragement, but I guess we will see each other and chat after the race (of course we didn't see each other and didn't chat after the race 😂). I stop at the aid station and notice the applause from the other runners on the short course, it's very, very nice. Thanking them, I guzzle water and Coke, refill my water flask and continue, this time through the traverse to the opposite side - in the direction of Krížske sedlo. This section is beautiful but seemingly endless. You think that you'll be at the pass after that one hill, but behind that one hill there is another hill, and behind it another and another... However, I am mentally prepared for this from last week's training with Janko F., so I just enjoy the surrounding beauty. It is really stunning here, the path is nicely runnable, the massif of Skalka and Kotlíska looms on the horizon, with Chabenec far behind. I love this part of the Low Tatras. It is incredibly stunning here and hardly anyone comes here. I do not understand that. Everyone is trekking to Chopok - that unsightly pile of boulders, and only a few people visit this beauty. At least one can enjoy peace and quiet here. You need to drink to that, ideally with an energy gel, so bottoms up!
The sun is already intensely warming and illuminating the surrounding hillsides bursting with autumn colors. Blueberries and cranberries around the trail play an intense red, dark blue velvety gentian flowers peek out from the brownish grass, and all of this blends beautifully with the blue sky and sharp visibility. I'm in heaven 😅
One (as yet) unknown author describes this scenery as follows:
"The morning is born, slowly, quietly,
Walking up, I forget my pride,
I leave it to the ravens gliding noiselessly
among the rocks and through the sky.
Step by step the sun comes up,
And it, and hoarfrost, and cranberries color the earth.
The mountains inhale their immortal breath,
Into the blue sky
they breathe out."
(Excerpt from the poem "Up The Paths of West Tatras" from the collection "Pure", Unknown author, year 2004)
In her work, the author describes the beauty of an autumn morning in the Western Tatras, but it can probably be applied to any Tatras 😎 I run through this splendor, getting excited, enjoying myself, I ride on an endorphin wave. I told myself today that I wouldn't take pictures, but that's impossible. So I allow myself four photos from the run and then at the finish line at Chopok you can take as many pics as you want!
I traverse one hill, another hill, another and another and pass first woman (apparently a relay runner), first guy, the second, the third and in high spirits I run to Krížské sedlo while chewing a flattened croissant. There, a man from Mountain rescue writes down my number, hands me water, and after a short refreshment, I continue towards Poľana. I bounce up like nothing and feel like I'm experiencing a runner's high. Those who have experienced it know 😁 Those who have not experienced it, let them start running and experience it. Don't take drugs. Run Marathons instead 😄. It's just that no ride lasts forever, one minute I'm floating and the next I'm hitting the rock bottom. I run down from sedlo Poľana and my stomach twists. Yikes, what the hell. I feel some discomfort. OMG. The stomach floats. Did the gel not fit in? Or the croissant? Or am I missing salt? Or all together? Plus I remember having PMS and being sleep deprived - I haven't slept well for about three nights. But what am I going to do here in the middle of this hike highway on this bare ridge? There is nowhere to hide and unload in peace, crowds of people flock here in an attempt to catch the last beautiful days of the departing summer. Oh well, I'll have to try to get the hang of it. At best I will go to the WC at Kamienka, but I risk losing a lot of time.
The thought also flashed through my head that at worst I would pack it in at Kamienka. But no, I don't want to do the third try, should I risk that the wasps will be there again next time? So no... I'll finish it today no matter what. But the Coke would help... So I'll put in a stride to be at Kamienka, where the aid station with refreshment is supposed to be, as soon as possible. My legs can run, but the stomach protests. Never mind, I have to slow down. I am reminded of the words of the great Jason Koop - when you feel nauseous during a race, you need to slow down and cool off. I have no way to cool off here, so at least I slow down. But I'm trying to run as much as my gut allows me to. There are a lot of tourists here, many of them cheering, they are nice, they clap, they cheer, it gives energy. I pass Dereše, trudge along the paved granite path, and Chopok is already in sight. On the trail, I pass a large group of children who are clapping, shouting, cheering, encouraging, and are adorable, so I muster up the rest of my strength and run up the hill. My check-point time is quite good and despite slowing down on the ridge, I arrive at the aid station near Kamienka much ahead of the cut off time.
I take a short rest, drink a Coke, do a photo session, observe myself, whether I'm going for the toilet or not. But I guess I'll skip it. As my brother used to say - "fuck the shit, you're gonna shit shit anyway". Following this catchword, I continue along the granite promenade in the direction of Krupové sedlo. I meander among the tourists and meet a few acquaintances. The stomach calmed down a bit thanks to the cola, but it's still not the 100%. I pass around a couple - a man and a woman, the man asks me how much we are running. I say 42. And where are you running from? I quickly recalculate in my head that explaining the route will take me about two minutes - that seems like a lot to me, so I just brush it off with a reply - "it's complicated".
They laugh and the woman concludes that this is the right answer and scolds the guy not to question me when I have to concentrate on where I am stepping. Right. Running on this granite is no candy lick. You have to be careful so that you don't suddenly lick the granite. As it happened to Majka the other day, didn't it, Majka?
The journey goes by quite pleasantly and feels fast, I don't even realize I'm at Krupove sedlo. The check point staff writes down my number, they take pictures of me, and I run down the beautiful Široka dolina. Finally away from the crowds. I am once again relishing the silence, peace, solitude and beauty around me. I meet only a few groups of tourists heading up. I am snapped out of my trance by the occasional high-quality stumble, which I barely manage to navigate. I turn onto the forest trail in the direction of Pekná vyhliadka, and here I am completely alone. It's pleasant here, I welcome the coolness, jumping over streams and reminding myself not to miss the turn that one has to take to go around the fallen trees on the trail. However, the markings on the route are excellent, one wouldn't get lost even if backing up with closed eyes. I emerge from the forest at Pekna vyhliadka, climb the hill under Rovná hoľa and from there descend to Biela púť. The run is pretty cool, but it seems endless to me. I run as fast as my intestines allow me - I can't shake them too much so that I don't get sick. I have to control myself 😁 I pass Priehyba, Koliesko and finally I am at the last aid and check point station. Even this cut off time today I am hitting with a margin. I have a coke, and refill my flasks with coke and water - I need to stock up for the last difficult stretch. Aďka from the station forces me to eat a banana with salt, after I described to her my adventures on the ridge. She doesn't even have to force me, I have it voluntarily and hurry to finish these woes and delights.
At the aid station, a half-naked Russian man passed me, whom I had previously overtaken before Krížske sedlo. He was in a great hurry, he must have caught his second breath. I accept that it will probably be difficult for me up there, but I am determined to somehow crawl my way up. I go around Vrbicke pleso, Mikulášska chata, a short stretch uphill on the asphalt road and run into the forest. It is pleasantly cool here, with fresh moisture coming from the stream. I welcome it, I feel myself coming back to life (the banana with salt has probably did the job too), I run up the rocky trail, my Altra Olympuses holding beautifully even on wet rocks. I catch up with a half-naked Russian man, he seems to be struggling somehow. I guess the second breath left him and has jumped on me. The Russian does not hear me stomping and snorting behind his ass, he staggers in a kind of trance. So when I'm right behind him, I say "Excuse me". He's thrown half a meter into the air out of the trance - he must have been terribly scared, so I'll add "Sorry" and run away. He looked pretty worn out. I relish the lushness of the forest, the wild stream and the pleasant jogging trail. It's nice here, I like it here. I meet a cheerful elderly couple at Brhliska - ".. and we already saw you today!" "It's possible 😊" the lady laughs with a cheerful deep clucking laugh, just like the stream at Tri Vody - they remind me of German pensioners - they ooze life in all its essence. It's refreshing.
I get to the rhombus zigzag in the direction of Luková. Right next to the sidewalk, a guy is shamelessly picking blueberries with his rake as if he didn't care. The sun remains mercifully hidden behind that one cloud and I climb up step by step. On my watch, I see how the altitude is adding up and I am happy with every kilometer ticked off. I meet other friends at Luková's, it's nice, they cheer, praise, thank you. I raise my head up and see that a pile of boulders called Chopok and the upper station of the Funitel cable car are in sight. It's already close, but at the same time so far... not possible to get any closer. I'm going up relentlessly, still having quite a lot of strength. I catch up with some runners, overtake a woman and a man - they are racers on a 21km route. The last few tens of meters, the finish gate is already close. I start running and to the applause of the others who have already finished, I run through it, turn off my watch, hand over the chip and exhale. I receive a finisher's t-shirt - instead of a women's S, I get a men's size M. I protest - I really want a women's S. Well, there's none left... they ask whether I want a women's S from the 21km course. Come on, of course I don't want that, because I ran a 42km course! Yes, I'm fully aware of it now, I'm a Skymarathon Chopok Finisher 🤩 so I grab the men's M size, grab two Urpiner beers and go to leeward to change.
I take pictures of the views, stand in a long line for the cable car and ride to Kosodrevina all alone in a funicular. From there I continue walking down to Srdiečko, where I greet Majka, Janko F. and his Janka, who made a trip with little Janko and came to see the big Janko. It's a nice meeting. They then hurry home because Janko (not sure, which one) is going to bed 😂 and Majka and I sit down for lunch - delicious soup, delicious main course, delicious dessert. I eat everything. We also keep an eye on how everyone is doing on the Ponitrianska stovka - today is its last - 11th - edition. I'm not there, but even from this distance I feel some strange nostalgia..
We'll move outside for the ceremony and raffle. Majka finished as third woman overall and the first in her category. She gives an interview, receives a beautiful trophy for first place and we win nothing in the raffle. We won a beautiful day though 🥰
Thanks to the organizers, who ensured everything was tip top, they also ordered beautiful autumn weather, it worked like clockwork everywhere and running and finishing this race was an experience for me. With a time of 7 hours and 15 minutes, I closed the women's results list, but two guys (one of them the half-naked Russian) came after me 😅 Maybe I'll come back here again sometime after all 😊
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